With the renewed interest in Carolyn Bessette and her forever iconic style, it’s safe to say the 90s are back. But for me, “90s New York” isn’t a fashion trend. I lived the 90s—for me that decade was a personal masterclass in style. I was fortunate to work at both Calvin Klein and Donna Karan during that magical, pre-cellphone, pre-Internet, pre-knowing-everything-about-everybody era. Working in fashion in New York City in the 90s was electric. It was also grueling, and the “work hard, play hard” mentality reigned supreme.
A Tale of Two Streets
My career began in the Garment District, specifically between West 39th and West 40th St. Those two blocks were my graduate school, my boot camp, and my endless source of inspiration. They shaped the way I see design, and continue to inform what I do today at Parker Thatch.
At Calvin Klein, I didn’t just show up for a job—I entered a lifestyle of extreme discipline. On my very first day, I was sent straight to “the closet” for a full makeover. From then on, I lived in head-to-toe Calvin: monochromatic sweater sets, turtlenecks, slip skirts, and those perfectly crisp white tees tucked under blazers. My hair was always pulled back, my makeup was invisible, and my nails were strictly “barely there.”
The stories about the office culture at that time are true in many ways. Personal items on desks were nonexistent. We weren’t even allowed staples—only black paperclips and dark grey folders. There were no stray smells, no food, and the only flowers permitted were white. With the temperature kept cool and the lighting constant, the space felt as sharp and intentional as a 1995 runway show. Working in that office taught me the power of a singular, uncompromising vision.
Just one block away at Donna Karan, the vibe shifted into something beautifully alive. While still sophisticated, it felt like a family. Our uniform was “black everything”—cashmere sweaters, “cold shoulder” tops, and those iconic draped jersey dresses.
It was a true hub of women’s empowerment. I can still hear the constant hum of the sample room, where sewers worked around the clock before line opening. Even with the incredibly long hours and constant travel, a sense of humor was required. There was a warmth there that made the hustle feel like magic.
Donna Karan was where I truly found my footing. It’s where I learned the intricate process of taking a clothing line from a single concept on a mood board all the way to a customer in a dressing room. But beyond the design, I learned so much about life. I traveled the world. I made lifelong friends.
I owe a huge debt of gratitude to my mentor, Mary Wang, for taking a risk on me—a dreamer from California who always believed that NYC was where I belonged. Those high-pressure days and global perspectives laid the essential foundation for Matt and me to eventually launch iomoi and, later, Parker Thatch. I feel so incredibly lucky to have been given the opportunity—man.. working in fashion during the 90s was not for the faint of heart, but I wouldn't trade my experience for anything.
xoxo-Irene
P.S. Since the 90s—and CBK—are having a moment, here are a few things currently in my cart that take me back to those extraordinary days.
